Re: "preserving" wedding gowns

[Jerry Shiner <keepsafe@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

This is a response to Kiersen Latham's letter (see below). I'm always 
interested in feedback from this group.
js

Dear Kiersen,

        I could write pages about this subject. (As a matter of fact, I 
have at: www.gowncare.com) However, let me answer a few of your questions 
directly. I hope the rest of the group finds this interesting.
        With very few exceptions "gown preservation" consists a standard 
dry cleaning and a quick stuffing into a box. In a few cases, the box is 
wrapped in shrink-wrap, and one shop even told me they dipped the gown in 
silicone! In almost every case the perpetrator's only training or education 
is a few years experience in the dry cleaning industry. Note that all dry 
cleaning businesses are built on the same foundations: efficient production 
and reasonable mark ups (some marketing skill helps). The staff is usually 
even less knowledgeable than the manager/owner. This situation extends even 
to those large wholesale companies processing thousands of gowns each year. 
If your intuition told you something was very wrong, you are very right! 
Pity the next generation of brides.
        Ok, here are some answers:
        Any of the solvents commonly used (perchlorethylene, petroleum, 
supercritical  carbon dioxide, fluorocarbons, the new solvents (their names 
escape me) and water-based cleaning) should all be OK for the fabric if 
care is taken (though perc and some spotting chemicals can melt beading). 
However, the problem is usually with correct maintenance and use of the 
solvents AND THEIR ADDITIVES. Please note that most dry cleaning involves 
only one immersion- there is no rinse! So the prognosis for a long life for 
the fabric depends a great deal on the chemistry used.
        The anti-sugar treatment is water. To the best of my knowledge, 
there is no other. ("Anti-sugar treatment" was invented and trade marked by 
a former green beret soldier turned dry cleaner who has seen his marketing 
scheme turn into a terrific profit maker for over 500 independent 
cleaners/licensees/members.)
        I don't know if Clysar is inert, but compared to the off-gassing 
from the paperboard box, the cheap tissue, the chipboard bodice insert, and 
the detergents and conditioners left in the gown after cleaning that will 
be trapped inside the shrink wrap, I don't think the Clysar poses a 
significant threat. The box will be passed through a heating tunnel for a 
very short time (maybe 10 seconds?), so the effect of the heat will be 
negligible.
        If your gown specialist is in Florida, he may be the one with the 
$4.00 boxes who filters the air through a carbon filter after sucking it 
out of the box with a vacuum. (He pointed out to me that it is the 
pollutants that yellow the gown.) You can't "pull the moisture out", and 
why would you want to?
        Cleaning a polyester gown is easy- and better for the gown than 
dry cleaning. Water will take care of most "hidden stains" (usually from 
clear drinks). You need a mild soap, a drop sheet, and a hose.
        So what is a bride to do? Information about cleaning a gown, 
safely preserving it at home, and lots of other stuff is on our site. As of 
this fall, I hope to be selling gift certificates through a large retailer. 
Our services aren't cheap, but we are very careful about what we do.
        One big problem is that dry cleaners have been learning the buzz 
words. For example, gown boxes now have "acid-free chambers" (a lining of 
acid-neutral paper over the paperboard), and windows are described as 
"acid-free". I could go on, but it is harder and harder for a bride with 
little experience to decide what to do.

        I'll be happy to answer any questions on this distribution list or 
privately. Thanks to everyone for your patience.

Jerry Shiner


At 03:28 PM 19/07/00 -0500, Kiersten F. Latham wrote:

> I am doing research on the drycleaning of wedding gowns (new and historical).
> I need experienced conservators' opinions and information from anyone who 
> has done tests relating to this subject. Specifically, I am interested in 
> knowing whether any of the solvents used (perchlorethylene, petroleum, and 
> water-based) are ok for new dresses. If not, why not? Are there any 
> solvents that are ok to use? Often, "wedding gown specialists" claim to 
> have an anti-sugar stain treatment. No one could tell me what these are as 
> they are proprietary. Does anyone know what they are, how they work, and 
> whether or not they are ok to use on textiles? Has anyone ever heard of 
> DuPont Clysar plastic? Is it inert? One "wedding gown specialist" 
> described encapsulating the gown in Clysar, heating it to 300F in a heat 
> shrink tunnel, then punching holes and pulling the air and moisture out, 
> replacing it with a "clean, dry preserving gas." This doesn't sound good 
> to me (but I am not a conservator by training). Any thoughts?

Jerry Shiner
Object & Textile Conservation Services Ltd.   O/A
Keepsafe Systems & Forever Yours Gown Bridal Preservation
Visit www.gowncare.com