RE: stable-Tex

["Frisina, Ann" <Ann.Frisina@xxxxxxxx>]

In answer to your question about abrasive nodes on the heat welded seams I
would resort to an alternative method of finishing the edges.  I prefer to
finish cut stable-Tex edges with a thinned solution of Jade 403.  Usually I
draw an accurate template with magic marker on Mylar first.  Then I place
the stable-Tex on top of the Mylar, drawing side down, and paint around the
perimeter.  Finally I snip the shape out with a sharp pair of scissors
leaving a thin line of the adhesive along the inside edge.  When well
executed this method is virtually invisible.  And it doesn't smell up the
lab.  This is a very simplified set of instructions so if you have any
further questions please feel free to e-mail or call me directly.

Ann Frisina
Textile Conservator
Minnesota Historical Society
e-Mail: ann.frisina@xxxxxxxx
(651) 297-5490




-----Original Message-----
From: J2Hammond@xxxxxxx [mailto:J2Hammond@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:04 PM
To: texcons@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Stabiltex


Have any list members had experience with, or know of research regarding the

abrasiveness of Stabiltex or crepeline as backing fabrics for historic 
textiles?  (I know research has provided information on various cotton 
fabrics as mounting materials)

I am trying to determine the possible long-term effects of Stabiltex or 
crepeline on the paint surface of a "back-painted" battle flag; the obverse 
painting appears backwards on the reverse side of the flag which must be 
stabilized by a fabric support.  The transparency of these two fabrics would

allow the reverse image to remain visible in its conserved state.

The flag is to be mounted on a fabric-covered strainer/stretcher and 
displayed vertically under glazing.  I am concerned about the friction of 
both types of fabrics against the silk and pigments. What about the nodes 
produced by heat-welding Stabiltex seams?

Any comments or references would be appreciated.

Jane Hammond