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RE: stable-Tex
In answer to your question about abrasive nodes on the heat welded seams I
would resort to an alternative method of finishing the edges. I prefer to
finish cut stable-Tex edges with a thinned solution of Jade 403. Usually I
draw an accurate template with magic marker on Mylar first. Then I place
the stable-Tex on top of the Mylar, drawing side down, and paint around the
perimeter. Finally I snip the shape out with a sharp pair of scissors
leaving a thin line of the adhesive along the inside edge. When well
executed this method is virtually invisible. And it doesn't smell up the
lab. This is a very simplified set of instructions so if you have any
further questions please feel free to e-mail or call me directly.
Ann Frisina
Textile Conservator
Minnesota Historical Society
e-Mail: ann.frisina@xxxxxxxx
(651) 297-5490
-----Original Message-----
From: J2Hammond@xxxxxxx [mailto:J2Hammond@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:04 PM
To: texcons@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Stabiltex
Have any list members had experience with, or know of research regarding the
abrasiveness of Stabiltex or crepeline as backing fabrics for historic
textiles? (I know research has provided information on various cotton
fabrics as mounting materials)
I am trying to determine the possible long-term effects of Stabiltex or
crepeline on the paint surface of a "back-painted" battle flag; the obverse
painting appears backwards on the reverse side of the flag which must be
stabilized by a fabric support. The transparency of these two fabrics would
allow the reverse image to remain visible in its conserved state.
The flag is to be mounted on a fabric-covered strainer/stretcher and
displayed vertically under glazing. I am concerned about the friction of
both types of fabrics against the silk and pigments. What about the nodes
produced by heat-welding Stabiltex seams?
Any comments or references would be appreciated.
Jane Hammond