Re: "preserving" wedding gowns

[Jerry Shiner <keepsafe@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Kiersten Latham <kiersten.latham@xxxxxxxxxx> had concerns about wedding 
gown preservation including

>[are] any of the solvents used (perchlorethylene, petroleum, and 
water-based) ok for new dresses."
>"wedding gown specialists" claim to have an anti-sugar stain treatment. 
No one could tell me what these are as they are proprietary. Does anyone 
know what they are, how they work, and whether or not they are ok to use on 
textiles?
>Has anyone ever heard of DuPont Clysar plastic? Is it inert? One "wedding 
gown specialist" described encapsulating the gown in Clysar, heating it to 
300F in a heat shrink tunnel, then punching holes and pulling the air and 
moisture out, replacing it with a "clean, dry preserving gas."
>Are there any broad rules about drycleaning I can pass on? ... what 
advice do I give to people who have stains on their gowns prior to storage 
(and what about hidden stains)?


        As many of you on the Conservation Dist List know, I could write 
pages about this subject. (As a matter of fact, I have at: 
www.gowncare.com). I'm posting this response as there is so much hocus 
pocus and humbuggery generated about this subject. The constant crop of 
"new" brides makes this a never ending educational project, with dry 
cleaners rapidly learning conservation jargon, and offering gown boxes with 
"acid-free chambers" (a lining of acid-neutral paper over the paperboard), 
"oxygen and moisture absorbing filters", and a host of other attractive 
sounding processes.

        With very few exceptions commercial "gown preservation" consists a 
standard dry cleaning and a quick stuffing into a cheap box. In some cases, 
the boxed gown is wrapped in shrink-wrap, ensuring the bride won't examine 
it for many years. One shop even told me they dipped the gown in silicone! 
In almost every case the perpetrator's only conservation training is a few 
years experience in the dry cleaning industry, and a lot of self-developed 
preservation theories.

        It is important to note that all dry cleaning businesses are built 
on the same foundations: efficient production and reasonable mark-ups (some 
marketing skill helps). The staff is usually even less knowledgeable than 
the manager/owner. While there are some very competent dry cleaners out 
there, the pressures of running a service business are severe, and few can 
afford the time it takes to research alternative methods to the industry 
standards and to find products from sources other than their regular 
suppliers.

        This situation is exacerbated by the large wholesale companies and 
marketing organizations (eg "wedding gown specialists" processing thousands 
of gowns each year. These businesses are built on volume sales and 
production, period. If Ms Latham's intuition told her something was very 
wrong, she was very right! Pity the next generation of brides.

Ok, enough spouting, here are some answers:
        Any of the solvents commonly used (perchloroethylene, petroleum, 
supercritical  carbon dioxide, fluorocarbons, the new solvents now under 
development and testing (their names escape me) and water-based cleaning) 
should all be OK for the fabric if care is taken (though perc and some 
spotting chemicals can and do dissolve beading). However, there are 
often  problems with correct maintenance and use of the solvents AND THEIR 
ADDITIVES. A hurried dry cleaner will often not recondition solvents as 
often as might be optimal for cleaning efficiency and residue deposits.  In 
some cases, extra "charge" might be added. Please note that most dry 
cleaning involves only one immersion- there is no rinse! So the prognosis 
for a long life for the fabric depends a great deal on the chemistry 
used.  All I can say is "BEWARE".

        The anti-sugar treatment is water. To the best of my knowledge, 
there is no other. ("Anti-sugar treatment" was invented and trade marked by 
a former green beret soldier turned dry cleaner who has seen his marketing 
scheme "wedding gown specialists" turn into a terrific profit maker for 
over 500 independent cleaners/licensees/members. A private email or call to 
me will bring some forthright comments.)

        In a recent posting to the Textile Conservation distribution list 
from Kathleen Kiefer, kkiefer@xxxxxxxxxx said:
>"DuPont Clysar EHC is a "polyethylene polypropylene copolymer containing 
no plasticizers".  It is used for shrink >wrapping.  I became acquainted 
with it at the Peabody Museum, Harvard University, and simply used it as 
a >humidification barrier.  The National Archives has considered using it 
in temporarily containing bound materials.  I >can't remember if it was 
actually used, but more information can be found in National Archives and 
Records >Administration Initial Findings: a study of shrink wrapped 
simulated bound volumes, August 20, 1993."

        Given that Clysar is inert, its most obvious danger will be the 
containment of the off-gassing from the paperboard box. The acetic acid, 
formic acid, and other products of degradation from the paperboard would 
also be a factor in the possible damage from contact with the cheap tissue, 
the chipboard bodice insert, and the detergents and conditioners left in 
the hastily folded gown after cleaning. Once loosely wrapped in Clysar, the 
box will be passed through a heating tunnel for a very short time to shrink 
the plastic (maybe 10 seconds?), so the effect of the heat will be negligible.

        If the specialist is in Florida, he may be the one who once 
explained to me that he makes a hole in the shrink-wrapped box, sucks out 
the air, and replaces it with air passed through a special filter. (He 
pointed out to me that it is the pollutants that yellow the gown.) You 
can't "pull the moisture out", and why would you want to?

        My general advice about dry cleaning is catholic: Find a cleaner 
who cares about his equipment and the quality of his staff and work. (They 
are usually the more expensive ones.) Take the garment in yourself (in the 
morning). Point out any stains you are aware of and be sure they are 
marked. (Examine the garment in good light BEFORE you go to the 
cleaners.)  Polyester gowns can be cleaned at home: it's easy- and better 
for the gown than dry cleaning. Water will take care of most "hidden 
stains" (usually from clear drinks). Basic at-home materials include a mild 
soap, a drop sheet, and a garden hose.

        Of course, some brides visit our web site, and we hope they will 
call us or buy our gift certificates. Our services aren't cheap, but we are 
very careful about what we do. Whew! Thanks to everyone on the list for 
your patience.

Jerry Shiner
Forever Yours Bridal Gown Preservation and Keepsafe Systems
www.gowncare.com
Jerry Shiner
Object & Textile Conservation Services Ltd.   O/A
Keepsafe Systems & Forever Yours Gown Bridal Preservation
Visit www.gowncare.com