Subject: Cor-ten steel sculpture
I am a sculpture conservator, active in the care of weathering steel. Incidentally, some who have known me for many years will be glad to hear that I have just (finally!) reinstalled the painted zinc 1879 Lions on Princeton's campus :' ) While grinding through the final weeks of that project, I noted but couldn't respond to the Seattle question on weathering steel and graffiti. IMHO, after reading a recent DistList contribution on this topic and visiting the associated web site <URL:http://www.best.com/~drrust> , artists, curators, conservators and others interested should consult further authority on the nature and development of weathering steel and its protective patina, on weathering steel's simple but critically important design requirements, and on the practical effect of chloride ions on that (or on any stable) patina. Readers might begin with any of the following offerings of mine: "Weathering steel sculpture," article in October 1996 issue of Sculpture magazine. "Weathering Steel," co-authored chapter in the U.S. National Park Service's 1995 book: Twentieth Century Building Materials: History and Conservation. "Conservation of Weathering Steel Sculpture," chapter in the Canadian Conservation Institute's 1992 book: Saving the 20th Century: The Conservation of Modern Materials." In the meantime, a few pointers: The protective patina on weathering steel has been shown to comprise a two- part layered structure, which includes little or none of the red rust (magnetite) found on other ferrous alloys. The inner part, tightly adherent to the underlying metal, is mainly amorphous ferric oxyhydroxide (goethite), and engenders and is covered by outwardly separating layers of the same in mostly crystalline form. Alternating wet and dry conditions promote the persistence of this protective barrier, not by recrystallization of rust but by dissolution at micro-crevices in the inner layer, of alloying elements such as copper from the underlying steel. These dissolved ions inhibit formation of magnetite and catalyze formation of goethite which seals the crevices. Crevices form anew when the patina dries, and when rewetted, the cycle continues and the protective patina develops to a kind of equilibrium with very little surface corrosion going on. Normal development of the protective rust patina is relatively slow; depending on ambient conditions the patina can take years to fully develop. However this may be speeded by an active program of water spraying and drying. In any case, good planning and patience are necessary. It is very unfortunate that salt or acid are commonly used to avoid waiting for protective rust to develop normally. I have observed that chlorided weathering steel surfaces develop rust suffused with a most, glistening quality very reminiscent of ferric chloride rust. Industry studies clearly show that weathering steel's performance is much worse near the sea and in marine environments, where its surface is heavily contaminated by chlorides. The provision of chlorides to the weathering steel surface, whether in the form of hydrochloric acid or as salt, is very detrimental to the formation of protective rust on weathering steel. The effect on long term stability cannot be good. Please *do not* use acid or salt to produce rust on *any* steel you want to preserve, including most definitely of course, weathering steel Due to the rinsing effect of rain as observed on outdoor surfaces generally, and to the exfoliating nature of weathering steel's protective rust, the contribution of ambient deposition to the observed darkening of color is probably minor. More important very likely is a decrease in surface light-reflectivity/dispersivity due to gradual thickening of the light-absorptive inner part and exfoliative thinning of the more dispersive outer crystalline part. John Scott, MA, MBA, MA-CAS (sorry, no PhD!) New York Conservation Center, NYC *** Conservation DistList Instance 12:12 Distributed: Friday, July 24, 1998 Message Id: cdl-12-12-004 ***Received on Tuesday, 21 July, 1998