Bookbinding and the Conservation of Books
A Dictionary of Descriptive Terminology

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1. A fabric produced in a wide range of construction and weights from silk, rayon, cotton, nylon, or wool. Velvet is characterized by a short, soft. dense pile produced either by weaving an extra warp into a single cloth, which is looped over wires and later cut, or by weaving a double cloth with an extra warp connecting the two fabrics which are later separated by cutting. Uncut velvet, or terry, is sometimes woven simultaneously with the cut to create figures on the cloth. Velvet brocades, which are the most luxurious of all velvets, are made with gold and silver threads as an extra weft, or filling, the figures being wrought by hand, as with embroidery. Velveteen and plush are cotton or wool fabrics woven in much the same manner as true velvet.

Book covers of velvet, often studded with jewels, were produced, (for royalty) as early as the middle ages; however, velvet attained to its greatest use in bookbinding in EMBROIDERED BINDINGS .

As velvet is difficult to work. embroidered velvet bindings usually included a large area of applique, laid. or couched work in colored silk or satin, always with large spaces that were unworked. Such work as actually was done on the velvet was always in thick gimp or gold cord. 2. A leather finished with a fine nap on the grain side, in contrast toSUEDE , which has a (usually coarser) nap on the flesh side. (111 , 280 )

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