purl ( purfling )
The spiral wires cut into lengths, threaded on
silk, and sewn down (generally on packthread), in
the raised areas of the designs of an embroidered
binding. Purl was sometimes manufactured with a
colored silk twisted around the metal but which
did not conceal it. The small corkscrewlike rings
made by this coiled process sparkled with
reflected light. (111 , 280 )