goatskin
Leather manufactured from a number of varieties of
goats, especially of the genus Capra. There is
little or no supply of domestic goatskin in either
England or the United States; what production
there still is, mostly in England, is of skins
imported from India, Pakistan, East and West
Africa, South Africa, and some from Southern
Europe and Central and South America. Supplies are
also available from the Far East. The green skins
are dry-salted, wet-salted, or simply dried, and
then baled for shipment to tanneries. African
skins frequently suffer from damage due to disease
and improper drying and are usually not suitable
for use as bookbinding leather; however, Nigerian
goatskins are frequently among the finest
available. Some goatskins are tanned, but
generally not finished, in the country of origin,
principally in India (East India (E.I.) tanned),
but also small quantities in Africa. Most goatskin
for use in bookbinding is vegetable tanned, but
some skins are alum tawed. Some skins are even
tanned by a combination vegetable and chrome
process.
Goatskin is tougher and more tightly fibered than
sheepskin, has a hard-wearing grain, and, when
properly tanned, can last for centuries. It colors
beautifully and has a distinctive texture
identified by ridges and furrows in the grain, and
hair pits in groups all over the surface.
Straight-grained goatskin is produced by rolling
damp skins until all the furrows in the grain run
in the same direction, while crushed goatskins
have had the ridges flattened by ironing, rolling
or plating.
Although MOROCCO ,
the best known goatskin, was first produced by the
Moors, possibly as early as the 11 th century or
before, the use of goatskin in Europe did not
become common until the first half of the 16th
century, in Italy, and was not common in France
until the second half of the 16th century. It was
rarely used in England before 1600. Since its rise
to ascendancy, however, it has been the
traditional skin used in fine bookbinding. See
also: LEATHER ; LEVANT ; NIGER . (83 , 102 , 164 , 207 , 236 , 291 , 335 , 363 )