synthetic dyes and synthetic pigments

[Jennifer Barnett <reginatextilia@xxxxxxxx>]

summer greetings!

For the Netherlands Institute of Cultural Heritage (ICN), I  am
carrying out a literature research into research done between 1850 and
1900 on synthetic dyes and pigments used on textile, paper and
paintings. In addition, instances of problems (fading, bleeding, colour
change etc.) occurring with these colorants on textiles, paper or
paintings dating from 1850 to 1920 will be included.

The web sited databases of BCIN, AATA and C0OL have been consulted but
there must be more relevant publications that have not made it to the
abstract stage. I would greatly appreciate receiving any references
which are not cited on these databases.

In comparing the abstracts found so far with my own experience, I have
the impression that the few citations of problems associated with
synthetic dyes and pigments found does not represent the number of
instances or observations that have actually occurred.  For example,
every late 19th century Berlin work embroidery (more than a few) which
I have treated or examined during the last 20 years was significantly
changed in appearance by faded and changed colours. I, probably as so
many others, never published an article about this problem because it
is so common, seems so obvious and cannot be treated anyhow. On the
other hand, it was never absolutely certain that synthetic dyes were
always present as dye analysis was never carried out.  I suspect that
this is often the case for other materials as well.

References citing problems with identified synthetic dyes and pigments
are therefore particularly welcome.  Just to get an idea of how wide
spread fading, bleeding and colour changes or any other problems may
be, I would greatly appreciate hearing of any condition surveys that
may provide such data.  I would also like to know what impressions
others may have of the occurrence and sort of problems presented by
these synthetic colorants.

with thanks,

Jennifer Barnett
regina textilia: historical textiles research & consultation
Oude Looiersstraat 65-67
1016 VH Amsterdam
Netherlands
tel/fax ** 31 (0)20 427 18 27
reginatextilia@xxxxxxxx