Re: Shattered silk turkish wedding dress

[Jenny Barnett <andelos@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

DMigdail@xxxxxxx wrote:

> How would you approach the treatment of an embroidered (metal wrapped thread
> with silk core) silk dress with a thin layer of batting and cotton lining?
> The garment has slits occuring along the length of the arms, across the back,
> and under the arms extending to the chest.  The silk is finely woven and
> fairly brittle (any attempt to sew it creates new holes).  The embroidery
> does not go through to the lining, though in some places it does appear to
> extend into the batting.  The object is intended for display on a mannequin.
> I have considered patches, an overlay of crepeline, even taking it apart for
> a more complete lining.  Nothing seems close to ideal.  Any suggestions?
> Denise Migdail
> dmigdail@xxxxxxx
> contract conservator, San Francisco

As a subscriber to texcons, the problem with these kinds of questions is the
lack of vital information. We need to be able to examine or at least see the
textile in order to formulate a concrete advice. It may be possible to send a
digital photograph or a scanned one to this discussion list. Can anyone advise
on this?
I also wonder about the extent of training and experience of the person behind
some questions. By knowing that , one can pitch the advice accordingly, thereby
not insulting/boring people by writing too simplistically or teaching grandma to
suck eggs. Otherwise I have wasted the last hour. Or is this concern trivial?

Turkish dress
In order to be able to offer suggestions, I need to know the following:
- is the silk weighted?
- is the silk supported by the batting? i.e., does the silk grip onto the
batting?
- if so, is the batting a sufficient support for the (heavy?) metal embroidery
during display?
If yes, then it may be possible to simply ease silk patches behind the splits
and leave them without stitches or adhesive. If the layers do not naturally
"stick" to each other sufficiently, it may be useful to apply running stitches
in the embroidered area, in existing needle holes, underneath and along the
length of the split. This is to ensure that the attachment of the silk to the
batting (or also the lining: must be better than taking garment apart) in
sufficient to support the weight of the material below the split. This way, the
patched split should be released from tension caused by weight/gravity which may
pull it apart.

The sleeves may not be so easy using this approach because the split runs
vertically. Perhaps a combination with a silk crepeline overlay would be
successful. The edges of the crepeline could extend to the embroidered areas
alongside and be attached through the needle holes of the embroidery or pushed
underneath, then attached by stitching. Silk is often stronger under embroidered
areas. This approach may also be useful for the other splits.

If none of the above is possible or appropriate, then the use of a thermoplastic
adhesive may be necessary.

Since I cannot see the dress, all this advice may be completely off!

-what are your criteria for an ideal treatment?
Should high aesthetic expectations be a major item, then you may be driven to
take the garment apart. This very much a last resort, even more so for
ethnographic textiles. Also, demounting is rather extreme for a few local
support treatments.

Should you be unable to find a satisfactory treatment, you can always advise
that the garment  cannot be displayed on a mannequin, that it be displayed flat
or on a sloping board. Then the use of unattached patches should be physically
possible.

Good luck!

Jennifer Barnett
Andelos Textielrestauratie
Oude Looiersstraat 65-67
1016 VH Amsterdam
NETHERLANDS
tel/fax 020 427 18 27
andelos@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx