Subject: Support material for bronze
Zoran Milic <zoran.milic<-a t->narmuz-lj< . >si> asked about a suitable support for an archaeological object. We usually use Perspex (the name used in England for acrylic sheet such as Plexiglas), because it is inert, transparent, smooth, strong, pleasant to work with and easy to adapt. Depending on the size and weight of the object we would use acrylic sheet which is 2 or 3 mm thick. Heavier acrylic sheet is sometimes needed for structural support, sometimes just for specific areas. In order to mould it to support unevenly shaped objects we use the following process: 1. The object is placed face down on a temporary support. For an item such as an uneven copper alloy sheet a bed of sand covered with clingfilm could prove suitable. The bed is very carefully shaped to make sure that it supports the object at every point. 2. The back of the object is protected. Again, a clingfilm barrier can be used, since this is only in contact with the object for a few minutes. Please make sure that you test the clingfilm (we use one with no plasticiser) to make sure that it does not affect the object or any protective coating. 3. Plaster of Paris is applied to the protected back of the object and built up to form a thick bed (at least 2 - 3 cm thick) with a flat upper surface. Take great care that the plaster cannot penetrate through holes in the protection, around the edges of the protection and that the dampness of the plaster cannot permeate through to the object. We have used this technique on thin wood panels of great antiquity and fragility with no problems, but you must be careful. 4. When the plaster is sufficiently set, remove it carefully (it will probably carry the clingfilm with it) and allow it to set thoroughly. Turn it over. You now have a mould of the back of object. You now need to make a cast replica of the back of the object. 5. Make sure that this plaster mould is fully protected with clingfilm and cover it with plaster of Paris to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. This upper layer of plaster will form the replica of the back of the object. 6. Remove the new plaster when it is set and allow it to harden thoroughly. Turn it over and remove the clingfilm. Trim any edges to remove excess plaster. 7. Dry the new plaster thoroughly in a slow oven (120 degrees Centigrade). 8. Cut a piece of acrylic sheet of a suitable thickness and slightly larger than the finished shape. 7. Lay the piece of acrylic sheet on the replica of the back of the object which you have made out of the plaster and place the original plaster mould on top, forming a sandwich. Place all three items in an oven at 120 degrees Centigrade. Watch the acrylic sheet. As it warms it will slowly soften and start to become floppy, conforming to the shape of the plaster. 8. When it is at the right stage it is as floppy as a piece of leather. Remove the sandwich from the oven with oven gloves on and gently press down on the plaster. Put a weight on the upper piece of plaster to keep pressure on the sandwich until it is cool. Do not put too much weight on the plaster or it will crack. As the acrylic sheet cools it will retain its new shape. It may not be a perfect fit at this stage and a few small areas may need further shaping. 9. When the acrylic sheet is cool test it against the back of the object. Mark any areas which require adjustment with a felt tip pen (these marks can later be removed with IMS--Industrial Methylated Spirits) and remove the acrylic sheet from the object. Heat just the areas which need more reshaping with a hot air gun (as used for paint-stripping) making sure you heat the area evenly (and not too much). While the areas are soft and malleable, reshape them with tools padded with cloth, shaped pieces of wood etc. 10. When the shape is right and fits the back of the object, trim away the excess acrylic sheet around the edges, leaving any projections which you need to turn up around the object (to prevent it sliding off the support) or to turn down to form feet for the support to display the object at the right angle. 11. Smooth all cut edges of the acrylic sheet with wet and dry carborundum paper, using grades of increasing fineness (and washing the acrylic sheet well between grades). We start with 200 grit and move up to 400, 600, 1200 and 2400 grades. Finally polish the edges with a very fine abrasive such as Duraglit wadding (silver cleaning grade) or a chrome polish cream and rinse clean with IMS. 12 Once the support is correctly shaped, all the edges are smoothed and the surface is clean and dry, mount the object on the support. 13. Stand back and wait for grateful appreciation. Practice with a small item first and gain confidence in handling scraps of acrylic sheet. Heating it too much will cause it to bubble (or even to smoke or burn). Bending it too fast when it is too cool will cause it to crack and craze. When it is soft and hot it can be easily indented and marked by tools such as pliers or even the pattern of the fabric of the oven gloves if it is gripped too hard. *Safety*: Remember to be aware of hazards and observe safety procedures. Acrylic sheet is flammable and should not be used near naked flames. Wear eye protection and protect hands against heat. When using wet and dry carborundum paper we find that barrier cream helps to protect the skin from the prolonged contact with water and abrasive particles. Dry plaster of Paris powder can be a dust hazard. Good luck, Richard and Helena Jaeschke Archaeological conservators *** Conservation DistList Instance 11:16 Distributed: Thursday, August 14, 1997 Message Id: cdl-11-16-003 ***Received on Saturday, 9 August, 1997