Subject: Photodocumentation
hello bobbie, I read on the net that you were looking into photo doc setups. I have put some time into this for my shop, and will outline what I've done. I really am a fan of stobes, for several reasons: they put out less heat, they allow me to hand hold the camera (very important to get the right shots of books without hanging by your toes), allow me to use daylight film (which is cheaper, and arguably better), have more accurate and consistent color temperature, are very fast, and now are much more compact and reasonably priced than they used to be. I should preface this by my approach to the photography of books. I see the book as mostly a three dimensional object, so the copy stand is of limited use for our purposes. True, there are times when all you want is a two dimensional shot of a cover or an open page, but for the most part, I feel that treating the book as an object conveys the most information about it. Therefore I look at photographing it as I would any object: I want a modeling effect, to give lights and shadows, not a copy effect. I often keep the image of the portrait studio situation in my mind--the challenge to photograph a face to give it light and shadow, without distortion or harsh effects. And I have taken my cue for my lighting setup from just these studios. Ideally, north daylight coming from a skylight or window to the upper right or left of the subject casts the perfect light: it models the subject, but also surrounds the subject with light, and produces a very full effect. In the portrait studio, there are now some very good strobe setups that give this effect. Now to the kill. Here is what I am using. I have a monolight, which is an all-in-one studio strobe, i.e. the power pak is included in the strobe head. I researched this quite a bit and have what I think is the state of the art strobe monolight--the White Lightning Ultra 600 made by Paul C. Buff, Inc. (530 East Iris Drive, Nashville, TN 37204, 800-443-5542). Price: $395.00 plus $49.95 for the mount for the softbox, see below. This is a very lightweight (4.3 lbs) strobe unit which puts out a great deal of light, and this is the least powerful of three models they make (U1200 and U1600 are the more powerful models). It has continuously variable strobe power, which means you can cut your exposure by any amount over 5 f stops. It has many features which can only be appreciated by comparing to other monolights (there are quite a few on the market, with a growing number all the time, as these will probably dominate strobe photography very soon), suffice it to say it is built with great care and is the most compact of any available--about the size of 1/2 gallon milk carton. I have this mounted on a boom arm which is mounted to the wall, and allows me to move the strobe up and down and all around if I desire, although I rarely move it. It is positioned up over the surface place the book on, at about 1 to 2 o'clock, the light coming down on the object almost from above. Now for the finesse. The crucial element here is the addition of a "softbox" to the front of the flash head. This is the standard studio lighting diffuser which looks like a big square black umbrella with a white translucent cloth over the front. There are many of these available (by the way, get the Calumet Photographic catalogue, 890 Supreme Drive, Bensenville, IL 60106, 800-225-8638, if you don't already have one) and I have tried two: Chimera 16" x 20" and the Plume 30" x 40". The Plume is the best, but also the most expensive: $299.95 for the Plume as opposed to $119.95 for the smaller Chimera. I would stick with one in the 30" x 40" range. This combination of softbox with strobe head produces what is in effect a window of daylight that virtually surrounds the object, and if placed correctly, produces soft shadows that give good modeling. You really only need one of these, and if for some reason you feel you need more even lighting (although the softbox creates a very even effect in some ways, but is directional) you just put a white reflective card on the opposite side of the object to bounce the light and give more fill-in. I use this for taking copy slides of individual pages also, by just using an easel which tilts the book or individual sheet toward me, so I don't have to move the light, and can stand more or less in front of or over the page. This is my setup. I have used virtually everything: quartz lights, photo floods, studio strobes with bounce umbrellas and separate powerpak, but I find nothing as versatile as the above setup. To be sure, I have photofloods and a copy stand for those times when this is exactly what I need and nothing else will do, but if I were going to just have one setup (which is hard), I would go with the monolight/softbox setup. As for beauty, there is nothing that can touch the lighting effects save mother nature. As for exposure, if you have the bucks, it is nice to have a Minolta Flashmeter around, but after one roll of film, you know what the correct exposure is going to be, with a one half to one stop differential for very light to very dark subjects. Here we shoot all book pages at f/11 to f/16, and dark bindings at f/11. This of course assumes you stick with a standard placement for the lighting, which is the best way to go. Total price of my lighting setup: Ultra 600 $395.00, Plume Wafer Medium $299.95, Mount for Plume (use Balcar mount AF2084) $49.95, Calumet Wall Mount Boom $99.95, for a grand total of $844.85. Everything except strobe ordered from Calumet. It ain't cheap, but nothing else in this business is, and it's a one time investment. I also think it is close to perfection! Have you priced copy stands with strobes--$2000+. If I may be so bold, I think conservators of all specialties and others responsible for the photography of art and artifacts will be going to these monolights in the future, so why not get in at the ground floor. Yours in light, Robert Espinosa. *** Conservation DistList Instance 2:14 Distributed: Saturday, March 25, 1989 Message Id: cdl-2-14-002 ***Received on Thursday, 23 March, 1989