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Re: arsclist acetate recordings



I run across this problem frequently, and have tried various
techniques. One which will sometimes work with lacquer which
has come loose in large pieces is to apply some viscous fluid
to the surface, letting it run *under* the loose piece, which when
pressed down, will then adhere to the aluminum so that the disc can be
played at least once (with a light tracking force, and also at greatly
reduced speed). I have used corn oil, and also vaseline with some success.
This is simply a way to improve the chance of making one successful
transfer before discarding the disc. A surface which has lots of large
cracks (due to shrinkage of the lacquer), but no loose pieces can actualy
present a worse problem, since there is no way to fill-in the cracks, and
the stylus will drop down to the aluminum surface and then snag on the next
piece of lacquer it encounters, probably causing more damage.
Bottom line, consider yourself lucky if you get a successful transfer.
Use of the Japanese laser turntable might be an alternative worth
investigation?
--
Doug Pomeroy   pomeroyaudio@xxxxxxx
Audio Restoration [CEDAR] & Remastering
----------
>From: Laura Botts <lbotts@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: "'ARSCLIST@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'" <ARSCLIST@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: arsclist acetate recordings
>Date: Thu, Jul 26, 2001, 3:06 PM
>

> Is there anything that can be done to salvage acetate recordings when the
> recording surface is cracking and peeling off of the base?
>
> Thanks for any help you can offer.
>
> Laura Botts
> Georgia Music Hall of Fame


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