[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: arsclist Reels and boxes
> Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 11:37:03 -0500
> From: Michael Biel <m.biel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "'arsclist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'"
> <arsclist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: arsclist Reels and boxes
> "Richard L. Hess" wrote:
> > I would strongly suggest metal reels over plastic ones for all back-coated
> > tapes from the '70's and '80's since the plastic reels are a bit iffy for
> > baking.
>
> I do have a couple of tapes with stickey-shed that are not
> back-coated. Has it ever been proved that the backcoating had a
> role in the problem?
While it has not been proven that backcoating had a role in the
sticky-shed problem, my understanding of the common wisdow was that
all the tapes suffering from sticky-shed were also backcoated. Your
experience expands yet further the scope of the sticky-shed problem.
So far, in my world, only Maxell tapes from that era seem to be
totally free. However, one cannot believe that it is Scotch tape in a
Scotch box. You never know what you get.
> > Baking is not suggested as a routine treatment, but should the tape
> > be in need of baking then it should not be spooled prior to the baking
> > process as that will increase the chance of irreparable damage.
>
> Is there any risk of damage if you are winding the tape directly
> from reel to reel without passing over any guides? If not, that
> would make this aspect of the use of metal over plastic reels a moot
> point.
I believe that there is damage possible in extreme conditions. While
not part of the sticky-shed syndrome, I have seen Maxell's oxide
adhere to the leader under it and I've lost the first wrap of tape
after the leader. I have been cautioned of sticky-shed that might be
strong enough to rip the oxide off completely. I have seen
substantial adhesion in the worst cases that I've experienced.
Also, in using reel-to-reel wind with nothing inbetween you are at
risk of higher torques and faster speeds on many machines.
On my Sony APR5003V I use the 75ips spool mode that keeps the tape
off the heads, but uses the servo system to gently wind the tape. I
never run an old tape at flat-out wind speeds, and without any
tension control and speed feedback, the reel-to-reel wind on the APR
is, to say the least, energetic. I'd hate to think what would happen
if a splice would let go.
In fact, the adhesion and the risk of the fast wind (I considered a
ReVox A77 for this application as well as the APR and was not
comfortable there either) led me to baking some tapes on plastic
reels. The deformation was minor and only one flange needed
adjustment out of six reels, but in my opinion this is an avoidable
risk.
Unfortunately, the plastic reels' hubs are not removable and not
compatible with aluminum flanges if you break the reels off.
So, all in all, I would stand behind my suggestion of not using
plastic reels for this application. I have scrounged and purchased
many used aluminum reels for my projects and are happily tossing the
plastic reels that I come across.
Also, my experience has been that there is much more chance of
warpage in the plastic reels and while I can shim the reel heights
in some instances to allow a tape to spool off without touching the
flange, I have seen more plastic reels exhibit this problem than
aluminum reels. Of course, a bent, standard aluminum reel can be
easily bent back or replaced.
Oh and the worst in my opinion is pancake (or hub) storage. I was so
nervous last night with a loose-packed hub that arrived without the
box taped closed. I always tape the boxes closed with pancakes.
This one was really loose. Put a flange on top of it, flipped the box
open put the other flange on it. The leader tape rings easily slid up
and down in the pack.
Cheers,
Richard
(speaking for myself)
Richard L. Hess email: rlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Vignettes Media web: http://marielynnhammond.com
Glendale, California, USA